English Lavender

Yes, Lavandula angustifolia is hardy to USDA zone 5 (-15°C) and survives most Dutch winters without protection — provided the soil drains well. Winter losses are almost always due to waterlogged soil rather than frost. Plant in a sheltered south-facing spot with gritty, well-drained soil for the best chances.

Prune right after flowering finishes, usually in late August or September. Cut back a third of the growth into a neat dome shape, but never cut into the old brown wood. A light shaping trim in April helps maintain form. Skipping pruning is the most common cause of short-lived, woody lavender.

The most likely cause is root rot from overwatering or poor drainage. Lavender needs soil that drains very quickly and dries out between waterings. Check the roots — if they are brown and mushy, the plant has root rot. Improve drainage urgently or repot in a very gritty mix.

It is possible but challenging. Lavender needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight — a bright south-facing windowsill is the minimum. It also needs cool winter temperatures (5-10°C) to trigger spring flowering. Most indoor environments are too warm and dark for lavender to truly thrive. Consider it a balcony or garden plant first.

The plant itself is mildly toxic — ingesting large amounts can cause nausea and vomiting. In practice, most pets leave it alone due to the strong scent. However, lavender essential oil is more concentrated and can be dangerous, especially for cats. Keep essential oils away from pets.

Harvest flower stalks just as the first flowers open on each spike — this is when fragrance is strongest. Bundle 20-30 stems together with string and hang upside down in a warm, dark, well-ventilated room for 2-3 weeks. Once completely dry, strip the flowers from the stems for sachets, cooking, or potpourri.

Poor, gritty, well-drained soil — the opposite of what most plants want. Mix regular potting soil 50/50 with perlite or coarse grit. Lavender naturally grows on stony Mediterranean hillsides, so rich, fertile soil actually causes problems: weak growth, fewer flowers, and shorter lifespan.

Much less than you think. In the garden, established lavender rarely needs watering — natural rainfall is usually enough. In pots, water only when the soil is completely dry, then soak thoroughly. In summer this might be once a week; in winter, once a month or less. When in doubt, don't water — lavender handles drought far better than wet feet.